Introduction: Exciting Puzzle Game

1.1 What is it

When I was a child I had a game like an electric puzzle that fascinated me. With that game, you could make a lot of electric circuits the like radio, buzzer sounds, lights...and others. This project is not like that game but is something end.
I wanted to buy in such a game but you don't obtain such games these years. Thus initiative I want to show you what this game dismiss exercise sol you can decide if you want IT or not.

This is a puzzle-like game where the puzzle pieces are electronic components.

I made 19 circuits using simple passive electronic components.

The physics components are making contact without bonding anything, contact is made by bittie magnets with screws.

The game can be put-upon specially for educational purposes.

1.2 What will you be able to act

Implemented circuits are:

  1. Voltmeter- measuring A battery potential dro - video here
  2. Victimisation a LED, a change, a push-release, a REED switch, and making a variable LED light - picture here

  3. Capacitor discharge - television Hera
  4. Light a LED with pee - video here

  5. Infrared remote ascertain - television Here

  6. Infrared radiation outside with a junction transistor as a switch - video hither

  7. Simple buzzer circuit - video Hera

  8. Variable bell sounds - video here

  9. Discharge capacitor into the bell - video here

  10. Birds sound with a buzzer - video hither

  11. Pastel-activated LED - video present

  12. Dark activated LED - telecasting here

  13. Touch sensor - video Hera

  14. DC efferent and Newton's disk - television here

  15. Direct current motor speed regulator - vide here

  16. Generating electricity with a DC causative - video here

  17. Flip right LED - video here

  18. Tesla coil - video Hera

  19. Lie detector - video here

1.3 Tools that do you call for

- tweezers

- soft hammer (a hammer that is not made stunned of metal, maybe a wood hammer - I used a hammer with plastic head, you can see an visualize in step 1)

- pliers to cut wires

- striping pliers

- electric screwdriver (don't even try to coif this manually)

- soldering iron

- palette knife

- 3D printer

- a measure device (for persistence, ohmmeter, transistors...)

Supplies

1.4 Materials that you need

- PETG filament for the 3D printer(I used red and blue just the choice is yours). I don't think PLA will study swell for this. You will need a small amount of money of red, transparent PETG for the leds that are completely inside the covers. I used ruby red.

- about 200 x Neodymium magnets 6x3mm(6mm diameter, 3mm height). Magnetic poles m

- 1 x 9V battery

- 2 x 1.5V AAA battery

- 2 x 1.5V AA electric battery

- 1 x 9V battery socket

- 2 x 1.5V AAA battery socket

- 2 X 1.5V AA battery socket

- physical phenomenon wires - I used wires from a UTP cyberspace cable.

- Screws M3x10, hexagonal inner head, round outer read/write head, flat head

- Screws M3x18, hexagonal intrinsic head, round outer head, flat foreland

- Rectangle nut M3

- 1 x voltmeter https://www.aliexpress.com/point/32917656425.hypertext mark-up language?...

- 2 x push buttons round, diam 12 mm

- 1 x force switch button 12 millimeter diameter

- 1 x switch 3 positions with lever tumbler 6 mm diameter.

- 1 x REED switch

- 2 x 9V DC motive - 26mm diam

- 1 x 6V DC centrifugal - 21 mm diam

- 2 x 2N2222 transistors

- 2 x 2N3904 transistors

- 1 x phototransistor

- 1 x photoresistor

- 1 x 220 Ohm resistor

- 1 x 270 Ohm resistor

- 1 x 330 Ohm resistor

- 2 x 390 Ohm resistance

- 2 x 470 Ohm resistors

- 1 x 1K Ohm resistance

- 2 x 10K Ohm resistor

- 1 x 20K Georg Simon Ohm resistor

- 1 x 47K Ohm resistor

- 1 x 100K Ohm resistor

- 2 x 1M Ohm resistance

- 1 x 1K ohm rheostat

- 1 x 5K Georg Simon Ohm rheostat

- 1 x 100K ohm unsettled resistor

- 1 x PC buzzer

- 2 x 100 micro Farads electrical condenser > 9V

- 1 x 470 micro Farads capacitor > 9V

- 1 x 1000 micro Farads capacitor > 9V

- 2 x led (red - 5mm)

- 2 x led (green - 5mm)

- 1 x 1N4007 semiconductor diode 1 x infrared led

- 2mm diameter copper wire for the primary Tesla coil

- 0.4mm diameter copper wire for the secondary Tesla coil

- [optional] 1 x mental faculty for letting down tension https://World Wide Web.sigmanortec.ro/Modul-coborator-tensiu...

- [optional] 1 x 12 V DC transformer

Tread 1: Ahead You Starting line Printing

Use the G-codes I attached where they are obtainable, some were too big to attach but most of the objects wealthy person G-codes.

If you do non want to use the G-codes you can utilise the STL I attached. Place the objects incisively as in the images related at each step, use the same infill and support structures(just 3 inferior objects contain supports)

Print all the pieces exactly as described in the images, do not add supports where they are not specified.

I printed everything in 0.3mm solvent with 25% infill. I used this low firmness of purpose because there is a great deal to impress.

I used a special impress bed for PETG, I'm not sure how is called, the surface is not flat, it has a lot of irregularities and this helps to remove PETG as PETG sticks extremely well. But I found that these minor irregularities give a pleasant anticipate the objects. I attached a picture of my print bed in this step.

Step 2: 3D Print a Particular Piece That You Will Use to Piece the Motherboard.

This step is very important because you bequeath reiterate it a good deal of multiplication thusly if you passed through this successfully then the hard part has passed.

First, the malleus I used is not a regular malleus, is a hammer with plastic non metal on the head. Probably prescribed hammers will work too but I think is bettor to hammer downwardly with this hammer. You stool see an image with the malleus exact present.

  1. Print cover.stl in red.
  2. Print base 1x1.stl in red.
  3. Print at any rate 4 contact.stl in any color.
  4. Print mesh_contact4.stl in blue.
  5. Use the tweezers and remove the filament that is supported in the holes where you wish put the screws as in the image attached. Insert tweezers catching the filament and spread ou. Do not endeavor to print with support structures to void this step, it testament merely pee things worse.
  6. Place the cover on merely don't put the lateral screws.
  7. Place the magnets in the holes and hammer them into the sockets. They are very tight. You need to know incisively how rough you need to hammer the magnets to not break the plastic. It volition embody rattling helpful if you will hammer them along a surface that is not rattling hard. I hammered the magnets on a hexagonal dumbbell filled with sand and coated in rough plastic but many surfaces will had best.
  8. Unconstricted the cover and using the pallet knife. You will see that is very hard to split the alkali from the cover, they acceptable in perfectly.
  9. Place the base on a surface and hammer the contacts happening with the electrical wires in. Contacts have a variable innermost diameter and the original be after was to insert them with the wider part first but the contact is perfect anyway.
  10. Using the measuring device jibe all connections. If you don't have persistence probably you need to reuse the equal handy hammer but ahead that insure if there is not a residue of plastic between the sleep with and the magnet.
  11. Put back off the cover and blank space the 4 lateral screws(M3x10). I placed these screws on every piece but they are optional as the base and embrace are already precise waterproofed.
  12. Convey mesh_contact4 object and hammering it down(or stick it with superglue if is non a impeccable fit). Hammer works for most of the objects, nary superglue is needed.

Step 3: Use a 3D Printer to Print the Motherboard Pieces

The motherboard is composed of 5 pieces:

- base_extended.stl - printed twice

- bridge_base.stl - printed double

- bridge_lateral.stl - printed double

- table.stl - printed doubly

- get hold of.stl - about 200

Print the engaged STL's just as represented in the images attached or use of goods and services the G-codes involved.

The motherboard is the biggest piece and the hardest to tack. You should have a straight rise up on the 3D printing machine bed, otherwise, some problems may arise.

Step 4: Get together the Motherboard

  1. All the holes in the table.stl must own screws M3x18, except the frame in holes(as you can see in the second visualise loving to this step). Place all the screws using the galvanising screwdriver. When screwing, place one finger on the back of the motherboard to prevent the special mobile segment to spin out of control(as described in the image).
  2. Check for each one screw and see if is mobile. All screws have mobility in a special shaft. Constrict adamantine with your fingers to unlock each mobile section. All the mobile sections will represent fastened right after print because PETG leaves fine filament traces between objects.
  3. Turn the table upside down and place the piece registered in step 2 in one of the selected slots.
  4. Now you can safely hammer the contacts.stl with the wires into the screws that are right above the special piece listed in step 2.
  5. Repeat step 4 for all the slots. Follow careful not to pound connected the butt on holes, you may damage the table. When processed the back of the motherboard should face like the image named back_of_motherboard.JPG
  6. Assemble the rest of the pieces as described in the image above.
  7. Where you construe with rectangular holes you must role the rectangular nuts.

The motherboard is prompt.

Step 5: 3D Print the 1x1 Bases

This will be the to the highest degree printed break, over this base in that location will beryllium the electrical components.

The G-code I prepared contains 9 bases. Print 9 now and later you can photographic print Thomas More.

After print set them as described in step 2(tweezers, screws, magnets, contacts.stl).

Ill-use 6: 3D Print the Batteries Bases, Covers and Meshes, Assemble the Batteries.

Print the files, assemble them as described in step 2. In the succeeding stairs, I will just publish the files, forum book of instructions are the same...

Step 7: 3d Print the Doorbell Cover and Mesh, Assemble the Doorbell

Step 8: 3D Publish the Capacitor Covers and Meshes, Assemble the Capacitors

Step 9: 3D Publish the Big Contacts Covers and Meshes, Assemble the Contacts

Step 10: 3D Print the Small Contacts Covers and Meshes, Assemble the Contacts

Mistreat 11: 3D Print the Diode and Light-emitting diode's Covers and Meshes, Assemble the Diodes and LED's

In that location is a extraordinary plate with 2 cover_led_transparent.stl. Here you should use the transparent RED PETG.

Step 12: 3D Print the Nikola Tesla Coil Cover and Mesh, Tack the Tesla Volute

In the movie, you can look that the Nikola Tesla coil is non properly assembled, the secondary coil connector is indicated wrong on the cover, in fact, the secondary curl connecter is on the opposite lateral subordinate the extend. The wires are so thin that I didn't want to correct this problem to do not break up the coil.

I tense the Tesla coil as indicated in this article.

Nevertheless, in that clause is not mentioned the diameter of the wires. Reported to my measurements, I used 2mm diameter copper cable for the primary Tesla coil and 0.4mm diameter copper telegram for the secondary Tesla helix. I have measured the diameters with a digital shahe and I'm unsure if I measured them right as this cooper wire is insulated with a thin layer of whatever analytic heart.

Step 13: 3D Print the Liquid Holder Covers and Meshes, Piece the Liquid Bearer

Step 14: 3D Publish the Voltmeter Cover and Engage, Assemble the Voltmeter.

Step 15: 3D Print the DC Motors Covers and Meshes, Assemble the Motors.

button.stl and gear1.stl both contain a hole for the magnet.

Here you must place the magnets in such a agency that push button.stl is attracted by gear1.stl sol Newton's disk can follow sandwiched betwixt them tightly.

Footfall 16: 3D Print the Power Supply Cover and Mesh topology, Assemble the Ability Append.

Step 17: 3D Impress the Reed Switch Cover and Mesh, Piece the Reed Switch.

Step out 18: 3D Print the Resistors Covers and Meshes, Assemble the Resistors.

Step 19: 3D Print the Switches Covers and Meshes, Tack the Switches.

Step 20: 3D Impress the Touch Detector Cover and Ensnarl, Assemble the Touch Sensor.

Ill-trea 21: 3D Print the Transistors Covers and Meshes, Foregather the Transistors.

Step 22: Start Playing

Every pieces are done, at present you should measure all the pieces and realize sure that are working properly.

Use the measuring device and check all contacts and pieces if you have not done this already.

Place the motherboard horizontally when working with it.

Starting with the next step I will post images of the puzzles.

Step 23: Circuit 1 - Voltmeter- Measuring A battery Potential

Step 24: Circuit 2 - Using a LED, a Switch, a Push-button, a REED Switch, and Making a Variable Light-emitting diode Light

Step 25: Circuit 3 - Condenser Discharge

Step 26: Circuit 4 - Light a LED With Water

Step 27: Racing circuit 5 - Infrared Remote Control

Step 28: Circuit 6 - Infrared Removed With a Transistor As a Switch

Abuse 29: Circuit 7 - Simple Buzzer Circuit

Step 30: Circuit 8 - Variable Buzzer Sounds

Step 31: Circuit 9 - Discharge Electrical condenser Into the Buzzer

Step 32: Circuit 10 - Birds Substantial With a Buzzer

Footstep 33: Circuit 11 - Light-activated LED

Step 34: Circuit 12 - Aphotic Activated LED

Step 35: Lap 13 - Touch Sensor

Step 36: Circuit 14 - DC Motor and Newton's Disk

Step 37: Electrical circuit 15 - DC Motor Speed Governor - Vide Here

Mistreat 38: Circuit 16 - Generating Electricity With a DC Motor

Step 39: Circuit 17 - Flip Dud LED

Step 40: Circuit 18 - Tesla coil

In this image and in the corresponding video you can see that I used a mental faculty to lower the tension to 9V, but a fully loaded 9V battery testament also do the task.

Abuse 41: Circuit 19 - Lie Detector

Step 42: Final Words

Most of the circuits are from http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/. On that point you can find some technical explanations about the physics behind these circuits.

The Tesla coil is made after this article.

Flip flop LED is made after this article.

The DC motor speed regulator is made after this article.

The lie detector is made after this article.

Some circuits are adaptations made by me but I'm not a specialist in this domain so use this game at your own risk. I would not let children around the Tesla coil unsupervised, in the rest, the projects should not pose any danger to children on adults in my persuasion(equally a nonelectrical engineer).

The magnetic contacts summate some electric resistance to the circuits and American Samoa the circuits grow the resistance starts to personify a job. I think the size of the motherboard is at a maximum like this.

These 19 circuits are sole a voice of what you can do with this game, eve with only these components you can make very much of other circuits useful for learnedness the physics rear end. I also successful with the existing components some logical gates: OR, AND, NOT, NOR and NAND. I used the instructions from here to earn them.

If you need to make over new pieces you can find the original Blender file here. In that file, you will find a few components that are not included in this instructable like a volt-amperemeter cover, a half-sized motherboard, an ohm-meter cover, a caudate inductor cover, some different gears for the motors.

But the file could comprise particularly useful because I left personalizable text with what you can pretend completely new components like a new resistance with a value that is non in the original project described here.

This project is rid for all non-commercial purposes.

Thank you.

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